Make your own Magnet Signs. Easy  to make. 2 free hours, and a shade tree. What you'll get is a  nice do it all  magnetic sign. The techniques used  here will transfer over to larger signs if that is what you wish.

Safety Glasses, Drill with 7/16th bit, 4" Grinder with Dewalt .45 cutting disk, pencil, and speed square. Later, we'll need 4 - 4" L-Brackets,  8 -Strong ties for sign corners, 16 - 2 1/2" bolts, along with washers and nuts. All the hardware comes from Lowes Home Improvement Center.

Your  going to need steel tube. In Ft. Worth you can get steel tubing from Lowes but for the money, you might be better off checking with your local Highway Department and ask them to sell you a 12ft stick of 1 3/4 inch of perforated galvanized steel tubing. If not ... Lowes carries perforated tubes.

Sign Blanks.  We order our blanks out of Dallas and get free delivery. They  come painted white but for the purpose of this tutorial we used a  black panel. Another good source for sign blanks are Real Estate offices. Many Real Estate offices will have signs they don't need or the realtor quit. Ask for them. Make sure their steel and not aluminum. If you only have aluminum, then use Magnamagic paint. Paint them and your ready.

This next step is the hardest.  The Sign Blank I used is 24" x 36". My Tubing is 1 3/4" inches. The perforated holes in the tubing are1" center. 2 pieces will be cut 23". 2 pieces will be cut 38 3/4". The two 23" pieces need both ends cut to allow for 2" centers. To do this, measure 7/8" inch for the center of your last holes. You'll see why this is important later. Look at the pictures below.

2 -23". Notice the cuts. Click for a larger look.

Corners are Simpson Strong Tie. Lowes carries them. You will need eight.

2nd image shows pilot holes drilled 2" centers. A speed squares flat base (if you have one) is exactly 7/8" of a inch wide. If you don't have one, measure 7/8th of an inch from the inside of Simpson Strong Tie then mark a straight line with pencil, drill your pilot hole then finish drilling with 7/16 drill bit.. Click for larger image 2. ** Using a clamp speeds up the process to do 2 corners at a time.

Next thing  to do is cut the slots. The 23" tubes are cut down their centers end to end. The 38 3/4 tubes, leave the last holes uncut.  I used a 4" hand grinder. I have table mounted equipment but for these small jobs I found it was just faster, easier to run the grinder down the middle of the holes. Dewalt makes a metal grinding disk just for cutting steel. One disk cost around .69 cent and will complete this job and probable another. Anyway, take a straight edge and mark the centers of the holes. Cut the center slot making sure you don't cut the last holes on the long tubes. ** If you do cut the last holes it won't matter but I prefer not to. Either way, it will still work and stay strong

If you've attempted to make this simple sign, you have come to realize how easy this actually is. The really good news is  the hardest part is over. All that is left is inserting the sign blank into the slots, attach the corners, bolt on your feet and the sign is complete.

Fabrication of the sign is self explanatory. Sign fits into the slots, corners bolt on each side held together with 2 1/2" 3/8th nuts and bolts, and feet can be attached.

Lay out your sign first. 23" inch perforated tube fits inside the long tubes.

  Slide your sign blank inside your tubes.

Assembling the larger sides first is the easiest. Laying a couple of blocks under your blank helps but assembly can be done without. Use 3/8th nut and bolts, a 9/16th wrench tighten the corners. Checking for square,  tighten the 4 center bolts. The center bolts are what clinches the sign together. Make sure the center bolts are tight.

Attach your feet if your needing a sidewalk for street sign. You can use L-brackets from Lowes.

Changing or moving the  L-brackets to different mounting points is a snap. The corner strong ties on 2 inch centers  and the L-brackets come with 2" centered holes. I hope you found this useful and it help you if your needing a  Magnet Sign. If you have any questions, send email to magnetletters@gmail.com

Welded Magnet Signs. 

We can't teach welding but its easy to learn, especially welding simple squares together. The tutorial will not get into depth. If your going to weld signs we figure the individual knows the basic processes involved.

I use 1 inch  square tubing for small sidewalk sign with 3/4" sq. tubing for stands. We use 22 gauge steel blanks for sign panels.

Larger stand alone signs are built using 1 1/4" steel tubing and 1" steel tubing for the legs and sign panel bars. We use 18 gauge steel for the panel.

You need a welder, welding hood, protective eye cover,  metal sheer or jig saw, grinder,  cut off saw (you can use a grinder with cut off disk), clamps, square, drill, and a black Silicon II.  Welding and fabrication should be done on  the flattest surface you can achieve and preferably on a concrete floor.

Dimensions

Your sign panel determines the final sign size. Panel size doesn't matter but what does matter is the frame being 1/8th inch larger than the sign panel. Steel expands and contracts. The steel size and gauge make a difference. The 1/8th inch allows your panel to expand inside the frame. You don't weld the panel into the frame because it expands. I can be done but for 2 or 3 reason I don't.

1. Expansion

2. If your sign blows over, panel warp is less likely.

3. Thin gauge steel is hard to weld properly to thick steel without warping it, unless your an expert welder

Frame

The frame is for a 10 ft sign using 1.25" steel tube. Measure twice, cut once!

• 2  pieces are cut 50 5/8th - Its important to always use small sides of the sign to carry the sign.

• 2 pieces are cut 120 1/8th.

• On the 50 5/8th pieces, drill a 3/8th hole 12" from the end on both.

• Grind all joints clean.

• Grind drill holes clean

• Remember to use eye protection

I use and 3/8th hole and a 3/8th nut for this next step. *Use a 3/8th inch bolt to insert into the nut. Using your grinder, rough up the nut and get ready to weld the nut to the frame. You can also use the bolt to center the nut inside the hole and use a c-clamp to make sure its tight against the frame before you weld it. Click here . As you can see you'll do this on the sign stand. It critical you achieve a good weld on the nuts. Its easier and takes less time to weld all you nuts to the steel before you weld up all the sum parts of your sign.

• Making sure your joints are grinded clean take a framing square and square up the 50 5/8th" piece and 120" piece. Your 50 5/8th piece will always be on the outside. Weld to 2 pieces together, just on one side right now.

• Go to the other end, making sure the 50" is on the outside and welding nut are aligned, then grind, square, and weld. Just one side.

• All that's left is the 120" piece and it will fit in between the 2 50 5/8th pieces, grind surface clear, check to make sure all is still square, and weld.  Magnetic Sign Frame

• Make sure all the 4 corners are welded, flip the magnet sign frame over, grind clean and weld the joints.

Magnet Sign Stand Cut List

• Remember your welding 2 stands!

• Cut 2 A - 40" with 45 degree cuts on both ends

• Cut 2 B - 20" with 3/8th Nuts

• Cut 4 C - 8" with 45 degree cuts on both ends

• Cut 4 D - 4" with 3/8th Nuts

• 8 Legs 20" USING 1" Sq. Tubing

• 2 Sign supports 60"  USING 1" Sq.Tubing

• 8 Feet - Not labeled. Use 1/8th flat stock or anything else you have handy.

Magnetic Stand Assemble

• Grind Clean, square 90 degree with framing square section A-B and weld.
• Grind Clean, square 45 degree angle B-C and weld
• Grind Clean, butt joint sections A-D and weld.
• If your using feet on your legs, Grind Clean, Butt Joint, Weld.
• Turn over, grind all joints clean, weld
• Your welding is done!

Magnet Sign - Frame and Panel Assemble

Place your magnet sign frame on blocks.

Use 5/8th supports - either wood or steel. Both work.

C-clamp flush along bottom edges wood or steel support frame

Cut 2 center support pieces 51 inches and place in center of Sign

The center supports keep the Magnet Sign Panel from Sagging.

Staging Magnetic Sign Panel Steel

I've painted one side but not the other. This tutorial was designed for a one man job. I've learned from mistakes that no matter how careful you are some scratching is unavoidable. The magnet steel panels are painted with Rust-o-leum. The Panel were put together in the winter time. Repainting a panel with oil base paint requires a 3 day drying time. Plus you may want another color for the other side.

The supports are critical.

If your outside try and complete your work without wind.

Remember the 1/8th over size frame size?

Put 2 .30 mil magnets at each end against the frame for spacers.

Set-Silicon-Dry

Make sure the panel is spaces evenly all the way around

Use Naphtha or Paint Thinner to whip down edge where panel - frame join

Make sure the panel Frame and Panel are clean

Use a 1/4" bead of Silicon at 45 degree angle catching panel and frame

Start the silicone bead. Move slow to ensure a nice, evenly spread bead along the edge. Another adjective is to allow the silicon to permeate the gap between the sign and frame. This will allow for expansion also will keep the panel in place. Don't move panel for 4 hours in the Summer, 12 hours if its cold.

Magnetic Sign

One Side Done

After Silicon is set but not totally dry, do the other side.

You want the silicon tacked but not dry to allow the new bead to bond

Move to a stand up position. Use C-clamps and string in windy conditions

Silicon the Back. You can paint before or after you silicon.

You have one more cut to make. I like to calk my signs before I make the stands. This allows them to set up and you can make better use of your time welding something while your silicon is drying. You need to cut 2 1" sq.tube pieces 60". This will allow the sign to extend to a height of over 7 ft. The tube will fit in the sign stand and sign. If your making a sign and found I left our a step or you have figured out a better solution, please email us.

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